
'Skimpflation' warning as tinned mackerel alternative hits more supermarket shelves
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Sales of fresh mackerel have also been suspended by some shops due to overfishing concerns A growing trend of supermarkets selling a cheaper, less nutritious alternative to tinned mackerel is an example of "skimpflation", a consumer group has said.
由于过度捕捞的担忧,一些商店也暂停了新鲜鲭鱼的销售 一个消费者组织表示,超市销售一种更便宜、营养成分更少的鲭鱼罐头替代品的趋势日益明显,这是“紧缩通货膨胀”的一个例子。
Princes - which supplies major supermarkets - has substituted the fish for jack mackerel, an entirely different species also being sold by Lidl.
为大型超市供货的 Princes 已用这种鱼代替了竹荚鱼,后者也是 Lidl 销售的一种完全不同的物种。
The switch has been spurred by dwindling stocks of Atlantic mackerel after years of overfishing, with its Chilean counterpart more sustainable and a third of the cost.
经过多年的过度捕捞,大西洋鲭鱼种群不断减少,导致这种转变,而智利的鲭鱼更具可持续性,成本也只有其三分之一。
"It's a real concern when manufacturers quietly downgrade everyday staples like these as shoppers can end up paying the same price for a product that delivers significantly less nutritional quality," Sue Davies, head of food policy at Which?, said.
“当制造商悄悄降低此类日常主食的档次时,这确实令人担忧,因为消费者最终可能会以同样的价格购买营养质量明显较低的产品,”Which? 食品政策主管苏·戴维斯 (Sue Davies) 表示。
Jack mackerel contains about half as much omega-3 and around a third as much vitamin B12 as traditional mackerel.
竹荚鱼的 omega-3 含量约为传统鲭鱼的一半,维生素 B12 约为传统鲭鱼的三分之一。
The shift has prompted complaints from some consumers over differences in taste and texture, as well as concerns about how clearly the replacement fish is being labelled.
这一转变引发了一些消费者对口味和质地差异的抱怨,以及对替代鱼标签的清晰程度的担忧。
Princes announced last October, external that it was changing all of its tinned mackerel products to jack mackerel, saying the species meets the Marine Stewardship Council's sustainability standards.
Princes去年10月对外宣布,将所有罐装鲭鱼产品改为竹荚鱼,并称该物种符合海洋管理委员会的可持续发展标准。
The firm said its jack mackerel products were "clearly identified" and had been introduced following extensive product and consumer testing, describing it as having a "milder flavour and meatier texture".
该公司表示,其竹荚鱼产品“有明确的标识”,是在经过广泛的产品和消费者测试后推出的,并称其具有“更温和的味道和更肉质的质地”。
Lidl is selling jack mackerel under its house brand.
Lidl 正在以其自有品牌销售竹荚鱼。
Lidl GB said it was "committed to sourcing fish and seafood from responsibly managed fisheries". Davies from Which? said: "While manufacturers face genuine supply chain pressures and sustainability challenges, they have a responsibility to shoppers to be completely upfront when they change a product's recipe."
Lidl GB 表示,它“致力于从负责任管理的渔业中采购鱼类和海鲜”。 戴维斯来自哪个?说:“虽然制造商面临着真正的供应链压力和可持续发展挑战,但他们有责任在消费者改变产品配方时完全坦率。”
She added: "Skimpflation - quietly changing ingredients to cut costs - has become increasingly common, but it can feel particularly sneaky as shoppers may not realise a product has changed until they get it home and eat it."
她补充道:“略膨胀——悄悄改变成分以降低成本——已经变得越来越普遍,但它可能让人感觉特别狡猾,因为购物者可能直到他们把产品带回家并食用时才意识到产品已经改变。”
Despite its name, jack mackerel is not a type of mackerel.
尽管它的名字如此,竹荚鱼并不是鲭鱼的一种。
Jack mackerel belongs to the Carangidae fish family, while traditional mackerel belongs to the Scombridae family. Until December 2025, under UK law, Carangidae species could only be marketed as "jack", "scad", "trevally" or "horse mackerel".
竹荚鱼属于鲭科鱼类,而传统鲭鱼属于鲭科鱼类。 直到 2025 年 12 月,根据英国法律,鲫科物种只能以“jack”、“scad”、“trevally”或“竹荚鱼”的名称进行销售。
But shortly after Princes launched its new product as "jack mackerel", the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs changed its rules to permit the labelling.
但在 Princes 推出名为“竹荚鱼”的新产品后不久,环境、食品和农村事务部改变了规则,允许使用该标签。
Industry figures reposted by seafood market intelligence platform Undercurrent suggest wholesale Chilean jack mackerel costs roughly one-third as much as Atlantic mackerel.
海鲜市场情报平台Undercurrent转发的行业数据显示,智利竹荚鱼的批发成本约为大西洋鲭鱼的三分之一。
The switch follows the so-called "mackerel war", a long-running dispute between the UK, Iceland, Greenland, Norway, the Faroe Islands, the EU and Russia over shared mackerel catch quotas.
这一转变是在所谓的“鲭鱼战争”之后发生的,这是英国、冰岛、格陵兰、挪威、法罗群岛、欧盟和俄罗斯之间关于共享鲭鱼捕捞配额的长期争端。
The countries have repeatedly failed to agree a unified system for sharing stock and setting catch limits in line with scientific advice.
各国多次未能就共享种群和根据科学建议设定捕捞限额的统一制度达成一致。
Mackerel catches in the north-east Atlantic have exceeded the levels advised by scientists by an average of 39% over the past 15 years, according to the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC).
根据海洋管理委员会 (MSC) 的数据,过去 15 年,东北大西洋的鲭鱼捕获量比科学家建议的水平平均高出 39%。
Stocks have plummeted by roughly three-quarters over the past decade, according to the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea (Ices).
根据国际海洋探索理事会 (Ices) 的数据,在过去十年中,股市暴跌了大约四分之三。
The intergovernmental body has advised slashing the quantity of north-east Atlantic mackerel caught in 2026 by roughly 70% to allow the stock a chance to recover.
该政府间机构建议将 2026 年东北大西洋鲭鱼的捕捞量削减约 70%,以使种群有机会恢复。
Last year, the Marine Conservation Society said the Atlantic mackerel population was at "breaking point".
去年,海洋保护协会表示,大西洋鲭鱼的数量正处于“临界点”。
The severe depletion of mackerel numbers has led to the fish losing its MSC certification, meaning it no longer complies with many retailers' sustainability policies.
鲭鱼数量的严重减少导致该鱼失去了 MSC 认证,这意味着它不再符合许多零售商的可持续发展政策。
Chilean jack mackerel, in contrast, is MSC-certified. In February, Waitrose said it would suspend sales of fresh, chilled and frozen mackerel due to overfishing concerns, while tinned products would be phased out as existing stock was sold.
相比之下,智利竹荚鱼获得了 MSC 认证。 今年 2 月,Waitrose 表示,由于担心过度捕捞,将暂停销售新鲜、冷藏和冷冻鲭鱼,而罐装产品将随着现有库存的售出而逐步淘汰。
The Marine Conservation Society heralded the move as "leading and decisive".
海洋保护协会称赞此举“具有领先性和决定性”。
The switch to jack mackerel is being felt beyond the UK, with supermarkets in the Netherlands no longer selling Atlantic mackerel and at least one supermarket in Sweden switching to jack mackerel.
英国以外的地方也感受到了对竹荚鱼的转变,荷兰的超市不再销售大西洋鲭鱼,瑞典至少有一家超市转向竹荚鱼。
Scientists and fishermen celebrate return of tuna Mackerel festival should celebrate cabbage instead, say animal rights activists
科学家和渔民庆祝金枪鱼回归 动物权利活动人士表示,鲭鱼节应该庆祝卷心菜
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